An emerald cut diamond (aka emerald diamond for shortage) requires a much higher quality stone than other cuts. An emerald cut diamond, often confused with an Asscher cut, is what is most commonly referred to as a step cut. Specifically, emerald and Asscher cuts are square shaped diamonds that have only 58 facets (including the girdle), primarily around the edge of the square. Since there are so few facets, less light is refracted and thus, imperfections are easier to see with the naked eye. As such, most jewelers and diamond experts recommend using stones with high clarity ratings of VS2 or better, and at minimum H color grading.
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Emerald cuts are designed to highlight clarity and purity of a stone, rather than for their brilliance. An emerald cut diamond will often appear larger than it actually is, due to the large window effect. When you look at the surface of an emerald shaped diamond, the most striking feature is the large, open face that allows you to see all the way through the stone. Since clarity and transparency are the hallmarks of such a cut, any inclusions or imperfections lessen the effect of the cut, detracting from its beauty and elegance. Unlike traditional round cuts and other cuts with a large number of facets, depth of the stone is not as important as color and clarity.
The emerald cut diamond rings and other pieces found in jewelry stores across the world bear little distinction from an Asscher cut diamond ring, at least to the untrained eye. It is for this reason that emerald cut and Asscher cut diamonds are often confused. However, there is definite difference between an emerald cut and a Royal Asscher cut, which has 74 facets and therefore refracts more light for increased brilliance. Both the emerald cut and Asscher cut reached their height of popularity in the 1920s. In fact, there was a time when one of the only ways to find such cuts was through estate jewelry sales, antique jewelers, and other avenues.
Today, however, square cuts like those seen in princess and emerald cut diamond jewelry have once again become quite popular. As such, more jewelers carry these unique stones in rings, pendants, and earrings, at higher premiums than their traditional round cut counterparts. In fact, the Royal Asscher cut was created shortly after the turn of the new millennium, in response to the growing interest in square cut diamonds. The revival of such cuts has made high quality, clear, and colorless diamonds the centerpiece of many jewelers’ engagement ring selections.